LFW Day 1: Fyodor Golan, #HPMLFW, Eudon Choi

Phew, it’s been a busy old weekend for me – London Fashion Week is here, showcasing the designers’ Autumn Winter collections for 2013-2014. It kicked off on Friday, which is where I began… you’ll have to forgive the picture heavy post, but it was a busy day!

It started at The Savoy, doing make up for Fyodor Golan as part of the AOFM Pro Team with key make up artist Michelle Webb. Here is the model who’s make up I did.

To create this look, we prepped the skin then applied an illuminating cream (I used MAC Strobe Cream) then used a Bobbi Brown stick foundation one shade lighter than the skin to create a pale base.
We then used Make Up Forever HD Foundation mixed with a little more of the illuminating cream mixed together, stippled on then buffed in with a clean brush.
We used a peach concealer under the eyes then let the foundation set in while we got to work with the rest of the face.
We then used a matt sand colour eyeshadow all over the lid (I used MAC Wedge) and up to the eyebrow then using the foundation brush blended it in at the eyebrow area to create and natural and seamless finish.
We added Urban Decay Sidecar to the lid, making sure to pat off the brush on the back of the hand to remove excess shimmer, then took the sand shadow under the lower lash line and buffed it out to blend the edges.
The brows were concealed out which we did a tiny bit at a time using a light shade of concealer on a mascara wand through the brows layer by layer, then a little liquid concealer to create a nice finish, and buffed out the edges of the concealer.

Photo by houseofmari.com

We used a mixture of Make Up Forever Aqua Rouge 9 and 11 for the lip colour, creating a pointed edge to the lips, then used black gel eye liner to line the lips then blended it up using a small cotton bud, then added the gloss from the Aqua Rouge and went around the edges of the lips with a nude coloured pencil and blended out with a cotton bud.

Photo by houseofmari.com

We used MAC Lightscapade for a light contour then a sandy coloured blush on the cheeks.
To highlight the face we used MAC Soft & Gentle down the nose, on the chin, forehead and cheekbones.
To finish, we added MAC Vanilla pigment to the inner corner of the eye using the little finger and blended out with a brush, then added white liner to the waterline. Powder was added in the lineup.

Photo by houseofmari.com
Photo from Vogue
A film crew were with me filming for Handpicked Media’s YouTube Channel – HandpickedMediaTV which was rather exciting, although I was having one of those days where I just didn’t feel I looked like myself so it’ll be interesting to see the video once it’s finished!
There was time for a quick pitstop at the Handpicked Media London Fashion Week Suite at the One Aldwych Hotel, which is always a pleasure. It’s a little bubble of calm in amongst the hecticness. Seascape were offering massages which I was so gutted I didn’t have time for, but still enjoyed sitting down for a few minutes with a Vita Coco and Curly Wurly and looking at the goodies on display. Superdry were there doing make up – it looks like a really great range and the prices look good too, I’m looking forward to having more of a play with that. Playful Promises were showcasing their underwear, which was gorgeous too, and I was surprised with the prices as I thought they’d be a lot more than they were! 

It was then onto Somerset House for the Eudon Choi show – which I was working as part of the AOFM Pro Team with Adam de Cruz as the key make up artist.

The collection was based around Russian doll styling and Russian folklore, so the makeup was kept very simple with the main focus being on the skin. We were trying to achieve clean, expensive looking skin with dewy highlights and glossy lids. Here is the model I made up for the show.

We started with prepping the face then giving it a massage with Embryolisse moisturiser to wake up the  skin. We then buffed it in with a brush and added a light cover of Bobbi Brown Tinted Moisturiser.
We used Bobbi Brown concealer with a pointed brush around the nose and any other areas that needed concealing, then buffed it out with a bigger brush.
We used a pink Bobbi Brown colour corrector under the eyes and for the inner corner of the eyes.
To achieve the smokey brow we brushed them up then added eyebrow powder on a brush which had most of the product brushed off it already, then a dry cotton bud to blend out the edges.
We curled the lashes then added Bobbi Brown gel liner to the waterline depending on what colour hair the model had – the blonde girls had grey, black hair had black, and brown hair had brown.
Glitter was added to the eyelid in lineup, and Tom Ford cream Highlighter to the cheekbones.

Photo from Vogue

I’ll be back from more tales from behind the scenes in the next couple of days. Hope you enjoy!

How To: Soft Brown Smokey Eye Tutorial

I go through phases of wearing the same style of make up. At the moment I am loving a bronzey, soft smokey eye with nude lips and today I am going to show you how I do my eyes. There are lots of ways of doing this, this is just one technique, which is the groove that I seem to be stuck in at the moment!

What you will need:
A light eyeshadow (I used MAC Brulee)
A bronze eyeshadow (I used Chanel Ebloui)
Black pencil liner (I used Models Own)
Black mascara (I used Rimmel Volume Flash)
Make up brushes 

1. Prep the eye by patting on the light eyeshadow as a base. Put it all the way up to the socket and in the inner corners of your eye – this will help to open it up.
2. Using a brush with short, firm bristles pat on a thick line of your bronze shadow close to the lid.
3. Using a soft dense brush, move the shadow up to the socket so there is now a gradient of bronze shadow going up your lid. 
4. Use a fluffy brush at the edges to remove any harsh lines.
5. Line your eye close to your lid – don’t worry about being too precise.
6. Repeat step 2.
7. Repeat step 3 – you are layering the eyeshadow on.
8. Using a very small brush, apply bronze shadow to the outer 3/4 of your lower lash line. Stay as close to the lash line as you can!
9. Line the upper lid (more carefully this time) and the lower lash line (gently) – again, staying as close to the lash line as possible.
10. Use a bullet tipped brush to rub the liner gently from side to side to smudge and smoke it out. At the outer corner of your eye, use the brush to push some of the colour into the outer 1/3 of your crease.
11. Use a fluffy brush to remove any harsh edges.
12. Curl your lashes, and apply mascara to top and bottom lashes. 

Although the layering takes a little bit of time, I really like the finished effect. It doesn’t have to be done with bronze – you could use any colour you like – I think it looks really effective with a vibrant purple. I love the contrast of the purple and black together.
What do you think? If you give it a go, let me know how you get on!

How to: Depot Lipsticks

Depotting lipsticks can be useful on both a professional and personal level.

When I’ve been working with make up, particularly at catwalk shows, it’s really annoying to not be able to see all your shades of lipstick – having to turn them over to read the name, trying to remember the name and which shade that is and opening and closing loads of lids until you find something you’re after. Having them depotted and in a palette means all your colours are there for you to see, and it’s easy to show your client what colour(s) you are thinking of using.

On a personal level – this is a fantastic way to save a broken lipstick, or if you just fancy having a lipstick palette!

The most useful type of empty container to use seem to be pill boxes. I got this one from Muji to make this palette. I also have some of these which can be separated which I use for mixing lipsticks together, or if we are working as a team of make up artists and all need to use the same colour lipstick. These would be good for you to use for at home, as you can separate one of the compartments for handbag use! You can do this in empty lip-gloss type pots too.

So…  first of all I chose which of my lipsticks I was going to put in my palette

Fact fans will want to know which lipsticks these are!  They are all MAC and shades are as follows:

one – Rebel
two – Myth
three – Morange
four – Lovelorn
five – Patisserie
six – Shy Girl
seven – Vegas Volt
eight – Ravishing
nine – Half ‘n’ Half
ten – Chatterbox
eleven – Russian Red
twelve – Creme Cup

Twist out your lipstick as far as it will go, then using a scalpel or a knife, cut the lipstick off and into one of the compartments. If your cutting equipment is too large for this part you could use the end of a spoon to scrape out the rest of the product from the container.

Keep going until you have filled your palette, but make sure you lay down the empty containers in order so you know which lipstick is in which place!

You can peel the stickers off the bottom of the original packaging and put them on the palette under the corresponding lipstick, or make your own stickers.

You can leave your lipsticks like that, or if you’d prefer them to look a little neater, you can melt them in the microwave. I was a little sceptical of doing this, worried that it might mess up some of the formula, but after a little online research, and the fact that some of my tutors had done it, I decided to go for it.

I microwaved at 20 seconds at a time until the lipsticks were entirely liquid. I would recommend leaving the palette in the microwave for a while after to enable them to start to solidify to prevent any overspill.

I was too impatient, and got them out immediately – you can see the pink has spilled a little into the nude lipstick where I lifted them and the liquids were higher than the gap in the separator. I will scoop this out once it has hardened.

And there you have it!

Don’t forget, if you do this with MAC lipsticks, to take your empty containers back to MAC for free lipsticks!

Hope this has been useful to someone – let me know how you get on! x